In India, men’s everyday clothing is by and large restricted to western wear such as trousers, shirts and formal suits. But when it comes to festivities, it is the ethnic pajama kurta or dhoti kurta which hold sway. Some traditional costumes of Indian men are:
This remains the most traditional garment of the Indian male. It is a 6 yard-long rectangular piece of unstitched white cloth, which is wrapped around the waist and between the legs. The dhoti is ideal for the torrid summer of India. Its usage can be traced back to ancient times. Though western outfits have replaced the dhoti over the years, yet it remains the chosen one for Indian festivals and weddings. It may be found in cream or off white shades, both in cotton and silk fabrics. But today one can find designer dhotis in different colours and designs.
A dhoti can be worn in a variety of ways and have different names according to the style. For example, it is called a dhuti in Bengali, veshti in Tamil and pancha in Telugu. A dhoti is usually complemented with a kurta on top but in southern parts of India, it is worn mostly with a shirt. An angavastram or an unstitched piece of cloth is placed over the left shoulder in this case. A South Indian dhoti is worn like a lungi and often has a broad zari border. A common sight in South India is that of men folding the dhoti up to the knees for the purpose of comfort, during work.
In Bengal, a dhuti is worn pleated, almost touching the ankles and tucked at the centre back. The style is such that the other end is well folded and can be held in the right hand. The garment is quite synonymous with the babus of Calcutta who worked as government servants during the British Raj. Those days the dhoti was worn with a long shirt. It also became the symbol of the Bengali gentleman and the elite who wore a plain dhoti kurta and discussed politics and literature over endless cups of tea at cafes and restaurants! Even today, Bengali men flaunt their exclusive designer dhutis with brilliant kantha stitched kurtas, during festivals and other occasions. Kurtas with batik prints and Lucknawi embroidery are becoming popular too.
In some parts of Maharashtra, men still wear the traditional dhoti, which is worn shorter than the way Bengalis wear it. A white kurta and a Nehru cap completes the look of the typical Maharashtrian man.
This is a piece of cloth sewn in a circle and worn around the waist like a sarong. Besides India, lungis are popular in several communities across Asia, such as Bangladesh, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. The most common patterns of lungis are plain, checks or stripes. It is considered to be a very comfortable garment among males in regions where conditions make it impossible and uncomfortable for the men to wear trousers all the time.
